Qualitair – ICC & QP Premium Series

Error code “E6” on display (Controller alarm, often communication error)

– Identify controller type: If it’s a Dixell/Invensys controller, “E6” can indicate a communication fault or auxiliary alarm. Qualitair’s touchscreen might show a plain text error or an “E” code. In known cases, E6 was resolved by checking communication lines.

– Inspect the interconnecting cable between indoor and outdoor units (if there’s a separate control link). A partially broken wire or interference can trigger comm errors. – Power cycle the system to see if the error clears. If it returns immediately, it’s a persistent fault. If delayed, could be intermittent connection. – Ensure both boards (indoor PCB and outdoor PCB) are powered and functioning – an unpowered board could cause no comm response.

– Tighten and secure all wiring connections: at the indoor controller, at any terminal blocks, and at the outdoor board. Many times, vibration can loosen screws. Also ensure any data cable shielding is intact. After resecuring, reset power and see if E6 reoccurs. – If problem persists, the issue could be a failed communication module or controller fault. Update or replace the controller PCB if available.

Consult Qualitair for a replacement board or firmware update that addresses known comm issues. – In a pinch, some have resolved comm errors by running a new shielded communication cable if the original was damaged. Proper routing away from high-voltage lines can also reduce interference. – Once resolved, monitor that the indoor unit responds properly to commands (e.g., setpoint changes) and that temperatures are updating – confirming communication is restored.

Temperature probe fault (E1/E2)

– On the Qualitair display, an E1 usually means the air sensor (cabinet sensor) is faulty; E2 might mean the evaporator sensor fault (common in many fridge controllers). If the unit’s display is flashing a temperature error or the temperature reading is obviously wrong (e.g. “-5°C” in a warm room), suspect a sensor. – Locate the sensors: one is typically strapped to the evaporator outlet or coil (de-ice probe), another measures return air. Check if wires are damaged or disconnected. – Use a multimeter to measure sensor resistance and compare to expected values (most likely 5, 10, or 15 kΩ at 25°C NTC thermistors). Open circuit (infinite) or short (0Ω) confirms a bad sensor.

– Replace the faulty probe with the same type. Qualitair likely uses NTC sensors (often 10kΩ). They may have part codes in manual or you can source an equivalent Dixell probe. Route the new sensor neatly and fasten it where the old one was (air sensor in airflow, coil sensor on evaporator tube). – Reset the controller (power off/on) to clear the error. Verify the displayed temperature now reads plausibly and that the controller engages cooling normally. – If a probe was slightly misreading (not outright failed), the controller might not throw a code but will control poorly. After replacement, calibrate if needed via controller settings (some allow an offset if required). – Keep spare sensors handy; these are inexpensive parts that can save a lot of downtime for any cellar cooler.

Cellar not reaching setpoint (No alarms on display, but temperature remains too high)

– Setpoint and differential: Double-check the setpoint is correct (some owners accidentally set to 12°C thinking it’s fine but if differential is +/– 2°C, it might allow 14°C actual). Ensure it’s not in a “Economy mode” or similar which might allow temp to drift at certain times. – Check if the unit is running continuously or cycling off prematurely. If it runs non-stop and can’t reach temp, likely capacity issue or fault (like low charge). If it cycles off while still warm, could be a false reading (sensor placement causing short-cycle) or controller misconfiguration. – Feel the evaporator coil: is it evenly cold? If part is warm, maybe partial loss of refrigerant or flow restriction. Check sight glass (if present) for bubbles. – Confirm fans (both evap and cond) at full speed. Some Qualitair may have a two-speed fan or EC fan; ensure performance mode is correct. – Look for high-pressure signs: condenser very hot, maybe pressure cut-outs happening unseen. The controller might not always show an HP trip if it auto-resets, but performance suffers. You might see the compressor cut out if watching closely.

– Standard remedies: Clean the condenser coil thoroughly and make sure ambient conditions are not extreme. Slightly overcast or reduce heat sources near the condenser if possible. – If suspect low refrigerant (e.g. frost at evaporator beginning, bubbles in sight glass), get a technician to leak test, repair, and recharge the system. Qualitair units pre-charged with nitrogen must be field-charged with R410A or R407C depending on model – ensure the correct refrigerant is used and weighed accurately. – If unit is undersized for a now larger load (more beer kegs, higher ambient), you might need an upgrade – but first rule out mechanical faults. – Adjust controller: Increase fan speed if it was on a low-noise setting and cellar is struggling. Disable any energy-saving mode until temperatures are under control. – If the evaporator is oversized relative to condenser, sometimes evaporator will not get sufficient refrigerant in low load (leading to hunting). In such cases, adding a refrigerant charge carefully (if undercharged) or adjusting TXV superheat might help.

Consult Qualitair for proper superheat values. – Also consider cellar conditions: if the cellar has newly added heat loads (like an ice machine exhausting there), remove them – they add unnecessary heat the cooler must remove. High humidity? Consider a dehumidifier or ensure no water on floor adding latent load.

Water leaking in cellar

– If you see water pooling under the indoor unit, likely the condensate removal is faulty. Qualitair units have a gravity drain or a condensate pump if the evaporator is low. Check the drain tray and outlet – is it clogged with slime or dirt? – If a pump is installed (some premium models include a Little Giant or similar pump), listen if it runs. If silent and reservoir is full, the pump might have failed or lost power. – Also check for excessive frost melt – if the unit iced and then melted, it could overwhelm a small drain. That ties back to defrost issues.

– Clear the drain line: Use a pipe cleaner or flush to remove algae and debris. Ensure the line has proper fall and no kinks. – If a pump is present and not working, replace the pump or its float switch. Qualitair spares should be available; in the interim, a temporary external condensate pump kit can be rigged to keep cellar dry. – Insulate the drain line if not already – in warm cellars a cold drain can sweat additional water. – Once fixed, also consider if the evaporator fan was off for any period (like after a power outage) – sometimes water blows off the coil when starting up if a lot of condensate was sitting. This is usually a one-time issue. – Keep the cellar cooler running continuously to avoid condensation fluctuations, and maintain cellar door seals (excess humid air entering leads to more condensate production).