BeerMaster (Wolseley Climate) – BM & BM+ Series

High Pressure Trip (Compressor stops on HP safety; may show no code, but manual reset might be needed on some units)

– Signs: The cellar warms up, compressor cycles off, and the outdoor unit may be hot to touch. If equipped, the HP switch might have a popped button (manual reset) or an alarm lamp. Some BeerMasters auto-reset HP after pressure drops, so you might not know except by hearing the compressor cut out after short run. – Check the condenser unit: Is the fan running? A failed condenser fan or motor capacitor will cause rapid pressure rise. Also inspect if the condenser coil is clogged with dust or debris – restricted airflow is a top cause of HP trips. – Verify ambient temperature: a heat wave can push pressures high if the unit is marginal. Ensure any head-pressure control (fan speed regulator) is functioning; some BeerMaster Plus units have fan speed control for noise, but in high ambient it should go full speed.

– Condenser cleaning: Power-wash or brush the condenser coil to remove dust and lint. Clear airflow around the outdoor unit (no boxes or rubbish blocking intake). – If the condenser fan isn’t running but the compressor is, replace the fan motor or capacitor. Temporarily, you can spray water mist on the coil to bring pressures down, but the real fix is restoring fan operation. – After addressing airflow, reset the HP switch (if manual reset type). On BeerMaster Plus, the HP cut-out resets automatically ~4 bar below trip – you may need to cycle power to restart the compressor if it locked out. – Refrigerant issues: If the condenser is clean and fan OK, yet HP still trips, the system may be overcharged or have non-condensables. A technician should reclaim and recharge to factory spec, especially if service history is unknown. Also ensure no overfeed of refrigerant (check sight glass). – In rare cases, high head pressure can be due to TX valve overfeeding or a blockage causing backed-up liquid. Evaluate subcooling; if very high, recover some charge or check for blockage at the receiver outlet.

Low Performance / Warm Cellar (Compressor runs continuously but cellar temp stays high; may trigger high-temp alarm after 30+ minutes))

– Airflow check: Are the indoor unit’s fans blowing strongly? If BeerMaster has two evaporator fans, ensure both run; the newer BMIEP units have energy-saving modes where only one fan runs off-cycle, but during active cooling both should run full speed. – Temperature difference: Measure cellar air vs. evaporator outlet air. If there’s little to no cooling difference, suspect loss of refrigerant or compressor inefficiency. Check for icing on evaporator or the suction line – could indicate low charge or expansion valve issues. – Look at the unit’s controller display: if it’s flashing an alarm (like “HA” or just alternating temp/alarm), it means temperature hasn’t been achieved. That could result from doors open or excess load, but if the cellar is closed, it’s a mechanical issue. – Inspect evaporator coil for frost/ice buildup. If present primarily on the coil inlet, likely low refrigerant. If whole coil is a block of ice, could be fan failure or very low setpoint (some owners mistakenly set below 8°C – BeerMaster will struggle and ice up).

– Evaporator fan fixes: If a fan motor is out, replace it. Running on half fans will severely reduce cooling. Also verify the fan speed jumper (some BeerMaster Plus controllers have normal vs. low-noise settings) is in the proper position for full cooling performance. – Defrost the coil: Turn off the compressor (but you can let the evaporator fan run to help thaw). Do not restart until coil fully defrosted. Find cause: if due to low charge, you’ll see pressures very low – have a tech leak-check and recharge the system. If due to low setpoint, remember BeerMasters typically should not be set below ~10°C without a heater kit – adjust setpoint to proper range (11–13°C). – Check expansion valve & filter/drier: A partially blocked TXV or filter can starve the coil causing poor cooling. A tech can check superheat; if abnormally high with warm cellar, likely a restriction – replace the drier and TXV if needed, then vacuum and recharge. – Compressors & valves: If the system pressures are abnormal (e.g. equalized with compressor running, indicating no pumping) and there’s no cooling, the compressor might be internally failed. Confirm by amperage – a significantly low amp draw with no cooling effect could mean broken valves. In that case, compressor replacement is necessary. (Compressors failing is less common; eliminate other causes first.) – Alarm reset: Once the issue is fixed, the high-temp alarm will reset automatically when the cellar cools back down. Some BeerMaster controllers also have an alarm relay that can trigger a beacon or text alert; ensure to clear any latched alarms on the panel by cycling power if needed.

Unit Icing Up / Low-Pressure Fault (Evaporator coil is freezing, possibly causing compressor off on LP switch if fitted)

– If equipped, check the LP safety switch: BeerMaster systems often have an LP cut-out to prevent running in a vacuum. If the compressor shuts off after a short run and you see ice, likely LP trip. Confirm by gauge or sight glass: low pressure and/or bubbles indicate under-charge or restriction. – Inspect evaporator fans – again, a non-working fan can cause ice. Also ensure door seals in the cellar are good; high humidity ingress can accelerate frost buildup. – BeerMaster evaporators include a de-ice thermostat (some models) or rely on off-cycle defrost (compressor off intervals). If the controller is set to an extremely low setpoint or continuous run, it might not defrost adequately. Check if the system has a defrost sensor (P2) and if it’s operational – a P2 fault might disable proper defrost logic (the BeerMaster Plus limits minimum setpoint to 8°C if defrost sensor is faulted, to avoid icing).

– Thaw and Dry: Turn off cooling and let the ice melt. Place towels or ensure drain is clear for water. Do not use hot water on an energized coil. Once clear, turn cooling back on and monitor. – Fix the root cause: For low refrigerant, a certified tech must find the leak, repair, evacuate, and recharge to the correct weight. Given many BeerMaster units ran on R407C (now replaced by R448A in new units), a retrofit might be necessary if a major leak occurred – consult the manual for compatible replacement refrigerants. – If a fan was faulty, replace it and test that both/all evaporator fans operate. – Adjust settings: If icing was due to running too cold, and the cellar doesn’t strictly need <10°C, raise the setpoint. Also ensure the defrost thermostat or cycle timer is working – some BeerMaster controllers rely on the cooling off-cycle to defrost naturally. If icing persists, a timer-controlled off cycle (e.g. 30 minutes off every 6 hours) can be implemented by a tech, or an electric defrost heater kit might be installed for extreme cases (though typically not needed for cellar temps). – LP switch: After correcting cause, reset any tripped LP control if manual (most are auto-reset when pressure rises). If an LP control is overly sensitive or faulty, it could be replaced or its setting adjusted slightly (but only do so within safe limits – usually ~0.2–1.5 bar cut out for R448A, depending on design).

Controller Fault Code Displayed (Flashing code on BeerMaster display, e.g. P1/OC, P2/SC, or “E” codes in older models)

– P1 / P2 codes: As with J&E Hall, “P1/OC” means air sensor open circuit, “P1/SC” short circuit. “P2/OC” and “P2/SC” refer to the defrost (evaporator) sensor. If these appear, the controller has detected a failed probe. Check the probe connections at the controller board (loose wires could cause OC/SC errors). Also physically inspect the sensor in the unit – it might have been dislodged or damaged. – Other “E” codes: Some BeerMaster units (especially glycol beer coolers or older digital controllers) have codes like E1, E2, E6. For example, “E1” often denotes a liquid line thermistor fault in glycol systems, “E6” could indicate high temperature cutout. If your BeerMaster panel is showing an “E#” code, refer to the Technician’s Handbook or service manual for that specific model. Wolseley’s provided manuals for BeerMaster Plus primarily use the P1/P2 format for cellar units. – No display / blank controller: If the controller screen is blank or unresponsive, the unit may have no power or a blown internal fuse/transformer. Ensure the unit has power and that the control fuse on the evaporator panel is intact.

– Sensor Replacement: Swap out the faulty sensor probe with an OEM or compatible sensor (typically NTC thermistors). For BeerMaster, the air sensor and coil sensor are critical – use the same resistance spec. After replacing, reset power to clear the fault code (these faults latch until a reset). Verify the new sensor reads plausibly (the displayed temperature should now be accurate and stable). – Clearing other codes: For any E-code, once the underlying issue is fixed (e.g., replace a thermistor, add glycol if it were a glycol chiller alarm, etc.), you often need to cycle power to reset the error memory. The BeerMaster controller retains error codes until reset to ensure you address them. – Controller repairs: If the display itself is dead, a technician may need to replace the controller board or check its power supply. BeerMaster BMI controllers have separate power boards and display boards – for instance, the BeerMaster BMI power PCB and LED display are replaceable components. If a surge took out the controller, replacing that PCB can revive the unit. – Reconfigure settings: After any controller replacement or prolonged power loss, confirm the setpoints and parameters (fan mode, differential, calibration) match the manual’s recommendations. BeerMaster Plus defaults are documented in the manual (e.g. HP trip at 25 bar, cut-in at 21 bar, temp set around 12°C). Adjust as needed for your cellar’s requirements.