Key Features & Specs: Hoshizaki’s Snowflake series is targeted at dependable performance with slightly simpler design than Gram. The SUF-65DG-C-L is a 560 L gross (398 L net) single-door freezer with a glass display door. It’s marketed as a “Light Duty” commercial freezer – suitable for cafes, small restaurants, or as a secondary display – but many users find it robust enough for daily use. It has a bottom-mounted refrigeration unit and fan-assisted cooling. Temperature range is –10°C to –20°C (so it doesn’t go quite as low as some, which is fine for general frozen food). It features a simple digital thermostat and LED display. Snowflake GII freezers have automatic defrost and are built to run in ambient up to 32°C. The door is self-closing, with triple-pane glass and integrated LED lights in the cabinet. The interior is aluminium with adjustable shelves (GN2/1 compatible). It uses R290 refrigerant and is on castors for mobility. Dimensions: 1996 mm H × 654 mm W × 840 mm D, so it’s a slimmer profile than some 600L units. Energy efficiency is rated Class D, which is decent.
Strengths: The Hoshizaki Snowflake SUF-65DG combines European design with Hoshizaki reliability. Users often highlight its compact footprint – at only ~65 cm wide, it can fit where larger freezers can’t, yet still offers nearly 400 L of net storage. The glass door gives a good display of contents; coupled with its narrow width, this makes it popular as an impulse freezer near tills or in tight café spaces. It’s relatively efficient (Class D) for a glass door, owing to Hoshizaki’s focus on insulation and efficient compressors. One big strength is ease of maintenance: the Snowflake series has a removable monoblock cooling unit (in some models) – essentially, the entire refrigeration system can slide out for servicing. This means if there’s a major problem, a technician could swap the unit quickly or repair it on a bench, reducing downtime. Additionally, Hoshizaki/Gram provide a good warranty (often 2 years parts & labour in UK). For everyday use, the SUF-65DG holds temperature reliably; it also has fan-forced cooling ensuring even temps on all shelves. Defrost is automatic, so users rarely need to manually intervene. The controller is user-friendly (just a basic thermostat display). Because it’s “light duty”, it’s actually quite quiet and consumes less power than heavy-duty freezers – a plus for small shops.
Common Issues/Weaknesses: Since it’s designated Light Duty, the SUF-65DG is not intended for very high frequency door openings or very hot kitchens. In a demanding environment (like a busy restaurant kitchen hitting 35°C in summer), it might struggle to hold –20°C at the top end of its range. It’s best used in front-of-house or moderate conditions. If overfilled or if airflow is blocked by product, it can get pockets of slightly higher temperature – always allow some space for air circulation. Some users have reported the door frame sweating (minor condensation) in humid conditions; the door is heated, but not to the extent of more expensive units. Common maintenance issues include replacing the door gasket – over time the gasket may tear due to frequent use; fortunately, it’s replaceable (Hoshizaki part KG-series gasket, readily available). Another occasional issue: the simple controller might display error codes like E1 or E2 (sensor faults) if a probe fails (these controllers are often the LAE or Carel types similar to Polar’s). Replacing a sensor or controller isn’t too difficult for a tech. The unit doesn’t have advanced alarms (no condenser alarm), so if the condenser gets dirty, the user won’t know until cooling efficiency drops. Regular cleaning of the bottom-front grill is needed. Also, because it’s bottom-mounted, if the freezer is in a dusty or flour-rich environment (like a bakery), the condenser can clog faster (dust settles low). Another weakness: the “Light Duty” tag implies slightly less robust construction – e.g., shelves are fine for boxed goods but might bow under very heavy items; the cabinet panels might dent more easily than a heavy-duty Williams. However, many owners use it daily without issues – just treat it gently. If the freezer is not defrosting properly (for instance, if you notice frost buildup), check that the defrost timer is set correctly or not disabled – sometimes users accidentally turn off defrost thinking it saves energy, which is not advisable. In summary, the Hoshizaki Snowflake glass door freezer is ideal for small to medium applications in the UK. Keep it clean, avoid overloading, and it will serve well. Should a major issue arise, Hoshizaki’s service network can support it, and the modular cooling unit means even a compressor failure can be fixed with minimal downtime.
Polar & Hoshizaki (Generic LAE/Eliwell Controllers) – Common Codes
Polar and Hoshizaki (Snowflake) upright freezers often use universal controllers that display “EE” codes or simple E1, E2 errors. Here are common ones (for models like Polar G-Series and Hoshizaki Snowflake freezers):
| Code | Meaning | Probable Cause | Recommended Fix | When to Call Technician |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EE1 (or E1) | Cabinet Temperature Probe Fault | The main temperature sensor is loose, broken, or shorted. The controller can’t read cabinet temp. | Check the cabinet probe on the controller – ensure its connection is secure. If loose, reconnect. If damaged, a temporary workaround is the controller may run the compressor in a safe duty-cycle mode. Ultimately, replace the temp probe (use OEM part). | Call a technician to replace the probe if you’re not comfortable doing it. This is a relatively quick fix for a professional – necessary to restore accurate temp control. |
| EE2 (or E2) | Evaporator/Defrost Probe Fault | The defrost (evaporator) sensor is loose or broken. Defrost cycles may not terminate properly. | Inspect the evaporator coil sensor (usually attached to evap). If it came off the coil, reattach it between fins. If broken, the controller will fail safe by using max defrost duration. Replace the probe to ensure efficient defrost. | If the unit is accumulating ice (defrost not ending) or you continue to see EE2 after reset, get a tech to install a new evaporator probe. They’ll also check the defrost heater functionality. |
| EE3 (less common on Polar) | Compressor “protect” probe fault (some controllers) | On certain units, a third probe monitors compressor or filter temperature. EE3 means that probe failed. | Check if the unit even has this probe – not all do. If yes, likely needs replacement. However, first ensure the condenser is clean and fan working, as sometimes an “EE3” can be triggered by overheat without probe failure on some models. | Call a technician if EE3 persists; they can determine if the probe is faulty or if it was an overheat condition that resolved after maintenance. Running without this sensor isn’t critical short-term, but it’s a safety feature you’ll want operational. |
| EE4 (on some controllers) | Condenser thermal cut-out (if equipped) | Some units monitor condenser or compressor temp – EE4 can indicate extreme high temp (dry filter > 58°C, per manual). Could be dirty condenser or failing fan. | Urgently clean the condenser and ensure the condenser fan is running. Check ambient temp – move unit out of direct heat if possible. After cleaning, reset by turning off/on. | If EE4 reappears soon, it’s indicating a serious overheating – a tech should inspect the refrigeration system (perhaps the fan motor is bad or refrigerant overcharge). Continuing to run in this state can trip the compressor overload. |
| E1 / E2 (on Eliwell controllers) | Similar to above, Probe 1 or Probe 2 Fault | Eliwell displays E1 for cabinet probe fault, E2 for evaporator probe fault. Causes and fixes same as EE1/EE2 above. | See EE1/EE2 above. | See above – probe replacement by tech if needed. |
| HA / LA (on some controllers) | High Alarm / Low Alarm (temp) | If the cabinet went above or below set thresholds. HA = too warm, LA = too cold. | Treat HA like any high temp – check door, condenser, load. Treat LA like over-freezing – check controller setpoint and probe. Reset alarms on controller after addressing cause. | If these alarms keep occurring, even sporadically, have a refrigeration tech assess the unit – could be refrigeration capacity issue (for HA) or control calibration issue (for LA). |
Troubleshooting Tip: Polar freezers not cooling well? Aside from codes, a common Polar issue is that the digital display might flash between a temperature and an “DEF” or error code – ensure you identify if it’s actually an error or just defrost mode. If the control panel shows strange readings or the temperature seems way off (like displaying +10 when clearly –18 inside), the air sensor might be out of place. Many Polar units have the air sensor in the return air path – if a product bag hits it or it falls, it can misread. Secure it in the proper location. Also, if a Polar’s controller is beeping but no code, it often indicates an over-temp alarm (beeping with current temp shown). That means it’s above its alarm setpoint – treat like an HA alarm: check door, condenser, etc., silence the alarm (usually a button press), and monitor cooling recovery. When in doubt with a Polar (or generic controller) error, power cycle the unit – if the error immediately returns, it’s a hard fault needing service.