Key Features & Specs: The True GDM-23F is an upright single-door display freezer (23 cu.ft. / ~590 L) from True Refrigeration, a US manufacturer known for glass-door merchandisers. It’s a one-section freezer with a swing glass door and typically comes in a black or white exterior finish. True freezers like this hold around –23.3°C (–10°F) internal temperature to ensure ice cream is rock solid. The cabinet has four sturdy shelves (PVC-coated steel) and LED interior lighting to showcase products. True uses a slightly oversized refrigeration system: a 3/4 HP compressor on this model, with a large evaporator coil, which helps maintain a steady –23°C even with frequent door openings. The unit features R290 refrigerant and True’s signature bottom-mounted condensing unit design – meaning the compressor is bottom-front, making it easy to service and also raising the interior floor for easier access to products (no stooping for the lowest shelf). It has automatic defrost (hot gas or off-cycle) that usually runs at night. Dimensions are about 1990 mm H × 750 mm W × 720 mm D. Energy consumption is moderate – True doesn’t quote EU classes, but they have improved efficiency with triple-pane glass and ECM fans in newer “HC” models. Notably, the GDM-23F has no complex digital controller; it often uses an analog dial thermostat or simple electronic thermostat (depending on year) – meaning fewer error codes, but also fewer on-board diagnostics.
Strengths: True GDM freezers are considered industry-standard merchandisers, very common in beverage and ice cream retail. They are praised for excellent temperature consistency – the heavy-duty cooling system can recover quickly after door openings, and –23°C setpoint means even on a hot day, ice lollies won’t soften. Build quality is solid: the door has a durable aluminum frame and a long extruded handle, and gaskets are one-piece and easy to replace. The interior liner is aluminum with a stainless steel floor, making it easy to clean. Because the condenser is bottom-mounted, cleaning the coil is easy (just remove the front grill) – which encourages proper maintenance. Also, True’s simple design means fewer electronics that can fail; many UK technicians appreciate that these units often run for decades with just compressor or fan swaps. “True GDM fridge not cooling” is a common query simply because so many are in use – but the fix is often a basic one (like cleaning a dirty condenser or replacing worn door seals). Another strength is parts availability: True parts (motors, thermostat, etc.) are widely available in the UK via suppliers, and True provides long warranties on compressors.
Common Issues/Weaknesses: One known issue is that older True freezers lack sophisticated alarms – so if something goes wrong (like the unit not cooling), you might not know until you notice the temperature rise or food softening. The most common reason for a True merchandiser freezer “not cooling” is a dirty condenser coil (leading to high head pressure and poor cooling). The remedy is to unplug and clean the coil – True even has maintenance guides stressing this. If that doesn’t help, the issue could be low refrigerant or a bad compressor, which needs a professional fix. Another frequent complaint is condensation on the door if the store is very humid; while the doors are heated, extreme humidity can overwhelm it (though in the UK this is usually only an issue in summer or if door seals leak). True freezers also periodically need door gasket replacements and hinge adjustments, since heavy use can wear them out (a worn gasket lets warm air in, causing frost issues). Unlike some brands, True’s basic thermostat might drift out of calibration over time – e.g. the dial set to –20°C might actually hold –17°C. If products seem soft, a technician can calibrate or replace the thermostat. Also, True units can be a bit noisier at times, due to the larger compressor. Finally, defrost issues: the GDM-23F defrosts automatically, but if the defrost heater fails or the timer malfunctions, you could get ice buildup on the evaporator causing poor cooling. Signs of this are frost on products or the compressor running continuously without reaching temperature. A temporary fix is to manually defrost (unplug unit to melt ice) and then have a tech examine the defrost system. In summary, True GDM freezers are simple and robust – most issues boil down to cleaning or replacing wear-and-tear parts. They don’t provide error codes, so troubleshooting is old-school: check power, listen for compressor/fan, feel for heat on condenser, look for frost, etc. Many UK businesses keep using their True merchandisers for 10+ years with minimal fuss.
True Merchandiser Freezers – Troubleshooting (No Display Codes)
True freezers (like the GDM series) usually don’t show error codes (they have analog controls or basic digital thermostats without diagnostics). Troubleshooting is more manual:
Unit not cooling (but has power): Check if the interior light comes on (power OK). Listen for the compressor and condenser fan – if silent, the temperature control might be off or failed. True freezers have mechanical temp controls that can fail. Try turning the thermostat dial. If compressor doesn’t kick in, but the condenser fan hums or runs, likely the compressor relay or overload tripped. Recommended fix: Clean the condenser coil first (many cooling issues are due to overheating). Then, if comfortable, unplug and inspect the start relay on the compressor (burnt smell or rattling indicates it’s bad). This often requires replacement – call a technician to replace compressor start components or the thermostat as needed. If compressor is running but not cooling, likely a refrigeration issue (leak or weak compressor) – definitely needs a tech.
Freezer running continuously, not reaching set temp: This often means it’s struggling to remove heat. Check condenser fan – if the fan isn’t spinning, the compressor will overheat and cooling will drop. A failed condenser fan motor is a common service call; you’ll need a tech to replace it. If fan works, check for evaporator coil icing – if the coil is a block of ice, no airflow inside. This could be due to a defrost issue or door left open. Fix: manually defrost the unit (unplug, let ice melt; or speed up with a safe method like warm air blowing with freezer off). Once clear, restart and see if it cools. Then investigate why it iced: was the door left ajar overnight? Or did the defrost heaters fail? True freezers typically defrost via off-cycle (compressor stops) since they hold –23°C; some have electric heaters if they are ice-cream freezers. If manual defrost solves it temporarily but ice builds again quickly, call a tech to check the defrost system or add a defrost timer if none present.
Excessive frost on products or door frame: This indicates warm air ingress. Fix: Check the door gasket for damage or gaps. True’s magnetic gaskets are easily replaceable – if cracked or not sealing, get a new one (simple DIY or technician can do in minutes). Also ensure the self-closing mechanism (torsion bar or hinge spring) is working so the door isn’t accidentally left slightly open. If frost is mainly on the door frame, the door heater may be off (some True units have an on/off for frame heaters, though most are automatic). Consult manual – but usually, a bit of moisture on frame can happen in humid conditions; heavy frost means a leak in seal.
Compressor short-cycles (turns on for a few seconds, then off): This is often a sign of a start relay failure or compressor issue. The overload might be tripping. Action: Unplug the unit to prevent damage. This situation needs a refrigeration tech – likely the compressor is drawing locked rotor amps. They may replace the start components or the compressor itself if it’s seized. In a True merchandiser older than 10 years, consider the cost of compressor replacement vs a new unit.
Unusual noise: A rattling or buzzing could be the fan blade hitting something (e.g., after moving the unit, the condenser fan might be contacting a shroud). Investigate and adjust accordingly (with power off). A high-pitched squeal might be an evaporator fan motor failing (these are in the interior top or back). Those can be replaced by a tech. Always address noises – a failing fan left too long can lead to a temperature issue (and thus food loss).
When to call a technician for True freezers: Since True doesn’t give you coded guidance, use common sense – if basic cleaning and checks don’t get the freezer cooling properly, or if electrical components are suspected bad, involve a professional (F-Gas certified for sealed system work). True units are straightforward for a refrigeration engineer to diagnose with gauges and a multimeter, and parts like fans, thermostats, relays are standard. Don’t let a True freezer sit warm for too long troubleshooting endlessly – better to safeguard your stock by moving it to another freezer and getting a tech to fix the True promptly.